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How to choose a subwoofer

Begin with the enclosure. Sealed boxes stay smaller and roll off gently at about 12 dB per octave, while ported and passive-radiator designs reach deeper and play louder from the same amplifier but need a larger cabinet. Next, match driver size to the room, with 8 to 10 inch drivers for rooms under 20 m2 and 12 to 15 inch drivers for larger spaces or home theatre. Then check the connections. Line-level RCA or XLR inputs suit receivers and preamps, while speaker-level inputs let you add a sub to an integrated amplifier with no sub output. Finally, look at the controls. A variable low-pass crossover, a phase switch or dial and a level knob are the minimum, and some models add app control or a wireless kit.

Key specs that matter

Amplifier power ranges from about 100 W in compact models to over 1,000 W in large units. Low-frequency extension at -3 dB typically falls between 18 and 35 Hz. The adjustable low-pass crossover usually spans 40 to 150 Hz. Cabinet volume and weight scale quickly with driver size, and a 15-inch ported sub can exceed 40 kg.

Price ranges & what you get

Subs selling for less than USD 600 use 8 to 10 inch drivers with class D amplifiers of 100 to 300 W. Between USD 600 and 2,500, expect 12-inch drivers, amplifiers up to about 1,000 W, balanced inputs and app control. Above USD 2,500, subs use dual opposed drivers, very long-throw cones and amplifiers above 1,000 W.

Related subcategories & reading

Bookshelf speakers gain the most from an added sub, and floorstanding loudspeakers can use one for film. In a 5.1 or 7.1 system the sub works alongside the center and surround models. Our loudspeakers articles explain crossover points and running two subs.